Today I went to North Korea!! Well, I mean, I was in North Korea for all of 4 minutes, and it was only inside of a building, but still.
I’ve wanted to take a tour of the DMZ for a while since this will probably be one of my only chances to go and everything, and so I finally booked a tour of the Panmunjom for today. Panmunjom is where South and North Korea hold their talks, and it is right in the middle of the Military Demarcation Line which separates the two states. In fact, when you’re there, you can see the line that runs right through all the buildings, because it’s raised up and marked by concrete in the ground. There are a lot of rules for the tour too because you’re in a military area and the North Korean soldiers are always *~**watching**~*. When we got to the briefing room, we had to sign a paper that said that they weren’t liable if we were injured or killed while we were there. O_O And we also had to promise that we wouldn’t point to the northern side, or make any other kind of “gestures” that could make the north upset or that they could use as “propaganda” against the United Nations.
It took about 40 minutes to an hour to get to the beginning of the Demilitarised Zone from Seoul, and on our way there we could see North Korea across the river. Interestingly, there were no trees on the North Korean side and our tour guide explained that it was because the North Korean government cut them all down so they can watch their citizens without anything obstructing their view. The only place where North Korea kept trees was where the North Korean border hits the South Korean at the Freedom Village (its real name is Daesong-dong). The Freedom Village is inside of the DMZ, and about 200-250 people live there as farmers. Because they live in such a dangerous place, they get military protection when they go outside to farm near the border and also don’t have to pay taxes.
There’s also a similar type of village on the northern side, except that no one lives there. Nicknamed “Propaganda Village” by South Korea and “Peace Village” by North Korea, this town (its actual name is Kijeong-dong) was built by the north to show how prosperous its citizens are, but the government never let anyone move in. The houses have no windows, lights go off at set times, and all the buildings have blue roofs to make them appear more grand. The government also deliberately built the flagpole in their village taller than the South Korean one to prove their superiority. Apparently, it’s also the third tallest flagpole in the world. The more you know.
Once our tour group arrived at the checkpoint, we had our passports and attire checked by a JSA (Joint Security Area) officer who boarded the bus. We weren’t allowed to bring anything with us when we got off the bus except for a camera, and when we took pictures we could only take them of the northern side, and never in any other direction. When we were at Panmunjom, we stood just outside of the building and could take photos of the North Korean building on the other side. There was a North Korean soldier watching us with binoculars while we were there, and our guide told us that there were likely many more soldiers watching us from inside the building as well, although no one can really be sure. On the southern side, there were ROK soldiers who stood facing north, watching the KPA soldier. Our guide also informed us that when tours from North Korea come to Panmunjom, instead of the KPA soldiers facing south to protect the visitors, they too face north in order to prevent anyone from defecting and entering South Korea.
After we took lots and lots of photos of the outside of Panmunjom, we had the opportunity to go into one of the United Nations’ JSA buildings (the blue buildings above). The building we entered is the one used for joint UN-North Korean talks, and the whole room was filled with tables and it was rather small. But the conference table in the middle stands exactly where the demarcation line is, and a soldier stands at one end, straddling the line. Once you pass the conference table, you’re in North Korea! You can also look out the window and get a closer look at the North Korean side. The two soldiers inside never moved, but they let us take pictures with them as long as we stood in front of them and not to the side. We only got to stay in the building for about 5-10 minutes, but it was still very cool!
After going to Panmunjom, we passed by the Bridge of No Return while on the tour bus. This is where North and South Korea exchanged prisoners of war following the signing of the armistice to “end” the Korean War. However, we didn’t get to get off the bus to see the bridge because it was a military area and no civilians are allowed. Once we all got photos of the bridge, we were no longer allowed to take photos for the same reason.
And so, we said our goodbyes to the DMZ (after going to the gift shop, of course) and headed on over to Imjingak Park, the northernmost part of South Korea that a civilian can enter; hence the very tall barbed wire fence. From the park you can see the Bridge of Freedom, which crosses the Imjin River (a North Korean river than connects to the Han River which runs through Seoul) and is a former railroad bridge used by ROK soldiers returning from the north. However, this bridge is no longer used and the North has its own bridge to cross the river farther north now. Imjingak Park is often used as a memorial spot by South Korean families who have relatives in the north or if their hometown is in North Korea. They come to the park to perform ancestral rites several times a year because these rites are traditionally done in the birthplace of one’s ancestors, and since they cannot go all the way north they use this park as a substitute. Imjingak Park also has many statues and monuments to the Korean War, as well as a small amusement park and a pond shaped like the Korean peninsula.
Following our tour of Imjingak Park, our tour group headed to a restaurant to eat beef stew for lunch, and from the restaurant there was a nice view of the rice paddies that are so prevalent in South Korea. After lunch we climbed back onto the bus and started on our journey back to Seoul, having now experienced modern Korean history firsthand. And so concluded our time touring the DMZ!